Facts we need to know

In children under 18 years of age it takes just one incidence of sunburn to double the risk of skin cancer in later life. Good use of sun protection factors (SPF) up to the age of 18, however, can reduce the risk by 80%.

One in every 75 children born this year will develop malignant melanoma.

Most people who do use SPFs use inadequate quantities of the incorrect kind.

It can take 10-20 years for the damage to manifest itself.

In a recent survey carried out by Cosmetic News magazine, 84% of doctors said they would vote to ban sunbeds altogether, claiming that 55% of the skin damage they see is directly attributable to UV light.

So what exactly is Ultraviolet Radiation?

Ultraviolet light rays are divided into three different types, according to the lengths of the rays. All of these rays are invisible.

UVC200-290 nanometres

These are the shortest wavelength and the most highly energetic of the sun's rays. Currently there are no SPFs available to screen these rays but, at present, they are largely screened out by the Ozone layer.

UVB290-320 nanometres

These are medium length and medium energy rays.

SPF listings relate to protection offered against these rays.

They are mainly present from 10am-4pm.

They penetrate only into the epidermis, or uppermost layer, of skin.

They stimulate melanin production - therefore they cause us to "tan".

They are linked to the formation of Basal cell and Squamous cell carcinomas.

They can cause skin swelling, redness, itching and are associated with development of cataracts in the eye.

They stimulate keratinocyte production - leading to thickened, horny looking skin.

They are 1000 times stronger that UVA rays.

UVA320-400 nanometres

These rays are what we recognise as daylight.

They are long wave and low energy waves.

They are present from sunrise to sunset.

They penetrate right through the outer layer of skin to the dermis, or growing layer, of skin.

They break down collagen and elastin in the skin.

They damage cell DNA and are associated with skin cancers.

They destroy the skin's natural defences by damaging the immune system.

They turn melanin darker.

They cause hyperpigmentation problems and thread veins.

They are 1000 times more prevalent than UVB rays.

They penetrate glass and are also given out by VDU screens and artificial lights.

They cause what we recognise as "ageing".

How do these rays affect our skin?

The epidermis, or upper layer of skin is called the stratum corneum. It is composed mainly of dead cells. Up to the age of 25, or thereabouts, these cells lie in an organised and neat fashion, rather like the tiles on a roof. This keeps the skin looking moist, translucent, smooth and finely textured.

As we age, the stratum corneum changes and dead cells are not shed at the same rate as before, leading to a thickening of the skin. Cells can develop in an abnormal and erratic fashion, removing the ordered, neat effect and causing the skin texture to appear less refined. Ultraviolet rays are the cause of this process.

The dermis, or growing layer of skin, consists mainly of collagen and elastin. Exposure to UV causes breakdown of the bonds between molecules and leads to production of "free radicals" which begin the process of damage.

The cells' ability to reproduce normally and identically is impaired and collagen and elastin destruction lead to the formation of lines and wrinkles.

What can we do to protect our skin?

The way to diminish the effects of UV is, quite simply, to prevent as much of it actually reaching the skin as possible by using Sun Protection Factors.

There are two main types:

• Chemical SPF absorbs UV rays and lowers the energy levels by releasing that energy as heat.
• Non-chemical SPF reflects/scatters the UV rays. It is also potentially less irritating to the skin. It is the most effective because it blocks both UVB and UVA and therefore is better for an anti-ageing effect.

The most effective non-chemical blockers are:

• Zinc Oxide
• Titanium Dioxide

SPF ratings are often misunderstood:

SPF 8 blocks up to 88%

SPF 20 blocks up to 93%

SPF 30 blocks up to 98%

Given this, there is really no benefit of a factor 40, 50 or 60.

Current thinking is that it is better to apply a factor 15-30 every hour or two than a factor 30 every 3-4 hours, since doubling the factor doubles the concentration of chemicals and, with it, the potential skin irritation but does not double the protection. Also, the SPF degrades the longer it is present on the skin.

"Waterproof" SPFs should still be protective in water for up to 80 minutes.

"Water Resistant" SPFs are only good for up to 40 minutes.

Sunscreens designed for use on the body are not suitable for use on the face since they are usually chemical only in nature and are often combined with a photosensitiser. Designed to make the skin turn brown more quickly, this creates an actual ageing effect on the face.

Most people do not use sufficient cream each time they apply, the average requirement for a body application is 1.3ozs, whilst the average usage rate is only approx. 0.5ozs.

The role of our light blockers.

The Vitage, Skin Ceuticals, Sesha and Helio-Care light blockers, available in a range from SPF 15-50, are suitable for all skin-types, all ages and all weather conditions.

The Sesha Repair and Protect 30 contains Photolyase, an enzyme which repairs damage to DNA caused by UV light. In order to work this needs light to activate it, hence it uses the power of UV light to repair and control the damage and this process is known as Photoreactivation.

All our non-chemical UV blockers are formulated with anti-oxidants as well as Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. These anti-oxidants help to "mop up" free radicals as they are being formed during the UV exposure time. They also help to combat the effects of pollution on the skin.

They should be applied liberally approximately 20 minutes before exposure and, if our SPF powder make-up is not applied over the top, they should be reapplied every 1-2 hours.

Because of the rich, easily absorbed formulations of these products, they are ideal moisturiser/sunscreen combination products for use under make-up and should be worn every day, winter and summer alike and in all weather conditions in order to maximise their anti-ageing properties.

If you would like further information, or specific advice on sunscreens, please call the clinic on 0115 9692323.